The Amalfi Coast. Thirty miles of road that everyone wants to drive.

Two airports, one famously narrow coast road with summer traffic rules of its own, and a sea that is almost always the quicker way. Getting this one right is entirely a matter of sequencing.

The essentials

The coast at a glance

How the coast works

One road, and it is the bottleneck

The SS163 runs along the cliffs from Vietri sul Mare to Positano, and it is the only continuous road there is. It was not built for the traffic it now carries, and in summer it is managed with restrictions rather than widened. The practical effect is that a twelve kilometre journey between two villages can take fifty minutes in August, and that a transfer with a fixed arrival time needs a generous allowance or a boat.

So the good itineraries here do as little on the coast road as possible. Arrive by sea where you can, move between Positano, Amalfi, Capri and Sorrento by boat, and keep the car for the airport run and the evening. We arrange the aircraft, the boats and the cars together. In Italy cars come from our trusted global network of operators we know; our own fleet and chauffeurs are in London and Manchester.

The number plate rule

Targhe alterne, and why it may not affect you

Under a long-standing ANAS ordinance, traffic on the SS163 through the eleven coastal municipalities is restricted on busy dates between 10:00 and 18:00 by the last digit of the number plate, alternating with odd and even calendar dates. The pattern in recent seasons has covered the Easter and late April holidays, then weekends through early summer, daily traffic in August and September, and weekends again into October. Several towns on the Sorrento peninsula run their own separate ordinances, and at least one of them applies the rule the opposite way round, which catches people out.

The part that matters to you is the exemption: taxis and licensed hire cars with a driver are exempt from the alternating plate rule on the SS163. A properly licensed car and driver can therefore travel on a restricted day when a self-drive car cannot. It is one of the better arguments for not hiring a car here. The calendar is reissued each year, so we confirm the dates that apply to your trip rather than working from last season's.

Getting around

Realistic transfer ranges

BetweenBy roadBy sea
Naples airport and Positano1 hour 15 to 1 hour 45, longer in seasonAbout 1 hour by fast boat from Naples
Naples airport and CapriNot possible by roadAbout 45 minutes by fast boat from Naples
Salerno airport and AmalfiAbout 1 hour, longer in seasonPossible by boat from Salerno in settled weather
Positano and Amalfi30 to 50 minutes on the SS163About 25 to 30 minutes
Sorrento and CapriNot possible by roadAbout 20 minutes
Positano and CapriNot possible by roadAbout 25 to 30 minutes

Realistic ranges, not promises. Sea transfers depend on the state of the sea, and a rough morning moves everyone back onto the road at the same time.

Flying in

Naples for depth, Salerno for the eastern coast

Naples Capodichino is the practical gateway for most private arrivals. It takes every size of aircraft, has full handling and customs, and sits close enough to the port for a boat transfer to make sense on arrival. It is a busy commercial airport, so the movement through it is planned rather than casual and your handler matters.

Salerno Costa d'Amalfi is the newer option, at the eastern end of the coast, with a runway extended to around 2,000 metres and further development under way. For Amalfi and Ravello it removes a long stretch of driving. It suits smaller and midsize aircraft comfortably; whether it suits yours is a question for your operator, and the two airports are worth quoting side by side. A small number of helipads serve the coast, which can be worth asking about on a peak Saturday, subject to availability and the weather.

Planning it well

What regular visitors do

  • Move by sea in daylight and by road in the evening, rather than the other way round
  • Ask us to confirm the plate restriction dates for your trip, and use a licensed car with a driver, which is exempt on the SS163
  • Allow far more time than the distance suggests for any transfer with a fixed deadline, particularly a flight
  • Expect the last part of a Positano arrival to be on foot or by hotel shuttle. The village is built on steps and the luggage goes separately
  • For July and August, plan months ahead. May, June and late September give you the same coast with room to move

Request a quote

Tell us where you are staying

Dates, flight details if you have them, how many of you and how much luggage, and the hotel or villa. We will plan the arrival by road and by sea, tell you which restrictions apply to your dates, and quote Naples and Salerno side by side. Nothing is booked or charged online.

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Questions people ask

About the Amalfi Coast

Will the number plate rule affect our car?

Not if it is a licensed car with a driver. Taxis and hire cars with drivers are exempt from the alternating plate restriction on the SS163. A self-drive hire car is not.

Which airport should we use?

Naples for most aircraft and for the deepest handling, Salerno if you are staying towards Amalfi or Ravello and your aircraft suits its runway. We quote both.

Is the boat really quicker?

Usually, and always more predictable. Naples to Positano is about an hour by sea against an hour and a quarter or much more by road in season.

Are these your own cars?

Our own cars and chauffeurs are in London and Manchester, and a trusted global network covers everywhere else. On the Amalfi Coast cars are arranged through operators we know, with one contact at Odyssey throughout.

Can we get to Capri without a yacht?

Yes. Capri has no road link, so everyone arrives by sea. We arrange a private boat rather than a scheduled crossing where you prefer it.

One contact, wherever you are

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One contact, wherever you are

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